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Throwbar Design Finalized

Finally Finalized

This is the second part to this post.  To see the series in order, click the link and follow the “On to Next Section…” links to get back here.

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A few days ago (OK, 6 weeks) I started working on the throwbars for the turnouts.  I have been playing with a few ideas on how to make them pivot as freely as possible considering the very short length of some of the switch points.  Some will be less than 1″ long!

I decided to use a technique I developed several years ago and wrote about in one of our Fast Tracks Newsletters.  This method uses a spike soldered to the switch point inserted into a hole in a PC board throwbar tie that has had the copper foil removed.

The advantage of this method is that there is no solid joint between the throwbars and the switch point, the only connection is between the switch point and the spike soldered to it.  The spike is free to pivot int he throwbar.  On most normal turnouts, this isn’t an issue as the solder joint is strong enough to overcome the stresses on it, but with very short points this will not work.

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For all the tests I had just been removing the copper from the PC boards with a file, but that is a pain in the fingers.  I decided to get some etchant (ferric chloride) and etch the PC board ties to remove all the copper foil.  This will leave me with a supply of nice throwbar material.

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About 50 ties were placed into a glass jar with the etchant.  Shaking it speeds up the process.

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Ferric chloride is very aggressive, this only took a few minutes.  This stuff is nasty,  so I chose not to drink it.

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The result is a nice material suitable for a throwbar.

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The key to success with this technique is to have holes drilled in the throwbar that are as square to the points as possible.  This will eliminate any stress on the solder joints.

To achieve this I made a crude but effective jig in my lathe to hold the throwbar square to the drill.

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The throwbar is simply slid into the groove in the jig and held in place by hand while the holes are drilled.  First, the holes are located with a centre drill, then drilled through with a small bit.

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The results are holes that are accurately spaced, and square to the surface.  The distance between the holes is .465″, which opens up the points a bit more than normal.  Any less and the wheels will catch the open point of these very small radius curved turnouts.

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Next I prepared a spike.  To solder to a Micro Engineering (30-106) spike the blackening HAS to be removed.  Solder will not stick properly to blackened surfaces.  I use a wire wheel in my Dremel tool to quickly remove the blackening from the spike.  This works very well and leaves a nicely polished surface suitable for soldering.

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Only the top of the spike needs to have the blackening removed, the rest of the spike will be trimmed flush with the bottom of the throwbar tie.

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The spike is inserted into the hole in the throwbar and trimmed flush with the bottom of the throwbar, then removed.

The throwbar is then put into position between the head ties, the spike re-inserted down into the hole and soldered in place to the switch point.  It is easy to adjust and position the throwbar by remelting the solder joint and siding the throwbar into position.

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Once complete, the throwbar moves very freely with the switch points pivoting at the spikes and rail joiners.

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Small wire jumpers are added between the closure rails and the switch points to feed power to the points reliably.

This seems to work very well and I will proceed with this technique for the rest of the turnouts on the layout.  I like this method, and believe it will be reliable as there is very little stress on the solder joints, the main purpose of the solder joint is to pull the points back open, when closing the points the pressure should be on the spike itself pressing against the switch point.  With minimal clearance in the holes in the throwbar there is little to no twisting being applied to the solder joint.  Thats the theory anyway, it is still untested under any kind of use.

Three down, 24 to go…

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and for no reason at all, a picture of the carfloat.

-T.

On to Next Section..

About the Author:

I'm your host, Tim Warris, a product developer in Port Dover, Ontario. Since March of 2007 I have been documenting the construction of the former CNJ Bronx Terminal in HO scale. For my day job, I design track building tools for Fast Tracks, a small company I own and operate. Fast Tracks makes it fast and easy to hand lay your own trackwork. Stop by our website to learn more!

Posted by: Tim | 01-19-2009 | 09:01 AM
Posted in: Latest Posts | Track Construction | Comments (0)

Car Carrier

Safe HO Train Car Transport

Car Carrier

Over the last year or so most of the rolling stock I have been using on the layout has been damaged in one way or another.  Not having a sufficient way of packing them to take to shows has resulted in lots of little damage.  Brake wheels seem to be the biggest victim.

I have just been setting them all side by side in a cardboard box with cardboard on top for a second layer.  Needless to say this hasn’t been very good for the models.

I haven’t been too concerned about it as I plan on building a fleet of highly detailed equipment for the terminal, for now I am using the cars left over from my Port Kelsey layout.

After seeing what Rich Chrysler was using to transport his very detailed models I thought I would use something similer.  What Rich uses is a Plano plastic box that seems to have been designed to fit a 40′ train car nicely (I think they are designed for fishing tackle and crafty trinkets).  Unfortunatly I could not find one, so I figured why not make on out of wood with the laser.

Since I was making my own, I could design it exactly the way I wanted.  To get it to fit on the laser, I needed to keep it under 12″ long.  This would allow me a box that would fit 6 cars, which is good enough.  I’ll just make a bunch of them.  6 to start with.

Car Carrier

Each section is the right size for a 40′ car and bubble wrap.  What Rich does is create a little cradle out of a sheet of bubble wrap.  This can be used to lift the car in and out of the box.

Car Carrier

I cut the bubble wrap on the laser too.

Car Carrier

Car Carrier

There is just enough space for the car and the bubble wrap in each section, this keeps the cars from sliding around in the box.

Time for a torture test….

Car Carrier

Car Carrier

Car Carrier

Car Carrier

Car Carrier

Car Carrier

They passed the test well, nary a broken brake wheel.

Car Carrier

Five more getting a finish.  This gives me a total of 6 boxes, enough storage for 36 cars which will be enough for now.  Eventually I will need another 6 or 7 boxes.

These should do well for the 500 1000 mile trip to Springfield this weekend…

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Obligatory dog picture.  Bath night.

-T.

About the Author:

I'm your host, Tim Warris, a product developer in Port Dover, Ontario. Since March of 2007 I have been documenting the construction of the former CNJ Bronx Terminal in HO scale. For my day job, I design track building tools for Fast Tracks, a small company I own and operate. Fast Tracks makes it fast and easy to hand lay your own trackwork. Stop by our website to learn more!

Posted by: Tim | 01-18-2009 | 11:01 PM
Posted in: Latest Posts | Comments (4)

Picture of the Day – Jan 18, 2009

Old Port Kelsey Image

Old Port Kelsey

Ran across this image of my old Port Kelsey Ry.  Thought it would be a good change from painted plywood…

-T.

About the Author:

I'm your host, Tim Warris, a product developer in Port Dover, Ontario. Since March of 2007 I have been documenting the construction of the former CNJ Bronx Terminal in HO scale. For my day job, I design track building tools for Fast Tracks, a small company I own and operate. Fast Tracks makes it fast and easy to hand lay your own trackwork. Stop by our website to learn more!

Posted by: Tim | 01-18-2009 | 12:01 AM
Posted in: Latest Posts | Picture of the Day | Comments (1)

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